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 What are we doing to prevent problems?

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First, we are proactively participating in the research and development of current standards for future stucco specifications.  We also implement necessary procedure before being required to by the state or appropriate cities. Below for your pleasure is a recap on our current lathing procedures...

 

Code required weepscreed (one version below):

 

 
Weepscreed is installed to allow proper drainage of water/moisture at the base of a stucco area.  Even along brick and stone walls if stucco is installed above them.  Most of this product is buried under the stucco.  First installed over brick/stone is a steel drip cap or flashing, then the weepscreed is installed.
 
We also install our own stainless steel painted drip cap over all window/door openings to create a barrier between water shedding down the wall and the opening itself.  The drip "cap" should hang far enough on the sides to go over the soon installed plaster stop(approx 3/8").  Water will shed left/right or out and around the window/door.  There should be Stainless steel sheeting installed on the home below and beside the front door and patio areas prior to any concrete being poured for steps and front entry patios.  This way our stucco can overlap this and further prevent any water from entering at the front door.  Any metal such as drip cap and kickout flashings are to be installed first, under all building paper that the stucco contractor or lather installs.
 
Our 2 layers of Grade"D" paper are installed bottom-up for proper water shedding.  We slide our paper up underneath the window installers paper, they should have wrapped the window opening prior to window installation and left enough hanging out the front for us to go under.  Some builders are even sloping the bottom sill rough opening towards the outside of the home for even more protection.  Once the paper has been installed, window tape (very sticky) is overlapped on the paper to slightly outwards on the edge of the window.  This creates a very tight seal.  Now continue the paper installation all the way to the soffit and under the pre-installed paper the soffit installer should leave hanging loose also.
 
  Click to enlarge 
 
Now it's time to install plaster stop (above photo).  The photos show the plaster stop properly installed prior to backer rod and caulking.  The backer rod and caulk are to be installed between the plaster stop and the window.  We try to match window color with the caulking in most cases.  This goes on verticle edges and horizontal surfaces except where there is drip edge installed.  Now we can install our lath making sure to only staple the studs.  The paper should be marked with lumber crayons to keep track of this.  Once the lath is hung, some cities allow for smaller (3.4") staples in the field, some don't.  You may have to tie-wire on those that don't allow for any stapling.  Next is time to brown coat.  Once again, some cities don't allow this process with one coat unless using a product like STO One-coat Stucco basecoat.  Although more expensive, worth it in some cases. 
 
After a few days of curing, this is when we install our cosmetic trim, quoins, and keystones.  They are prebase-coated foam sculpted pieces that are mechanically and chemically fastened to the basecoat stucco.  We then wait the rest of the appropriate 10 days or longer for the stucco to continue curing and then apply the finish coat.   Generally we use an acrylic finish such as Parex, Dryvit, or Sto.  Unless otherwise specified. 
 
And finally, a company, either hired by us, or the contractor comes in and professionally installs backer rod and caulking to all appropriate joints on the stucco area.  We will try to maintain updates to this page as things continue to progress. 
 
 

Dr. Stucco, Inc. 2005   6223 Clinton Ave South,  Richfield,  MN  55423

612-869-2243     fax 1-800-878-7139         MN  Lic# 20323087

 

 

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